5This is an updated version of the .22 electric firearm. As usual, do not print this in case it is classified as an AOW. More information is found here: http://defcad.org/forum/index.php?topic=355.msg1318;topicseen#new.
In theory, the circuit would be made up of the parts of three disposable cameras. All three have their capacitors removed and then they are connected onto the circuit of one of the cameras. Then two wires are connected to the three capacitors and put through the two holes which will touch it to the bullet. This model should not require soldering unlike the last one did.
Here’s how this works. It is basically a test firearm designed to fire .22 rounds using electric current. It comes in two parts, the grip and the barrel. The two 5mm diameter holes on the barrel and grip will have a bolt inserted in them and tightened with a nut and wrench. The hole is smooth and will not hold the bolt on its own, but I believe if you tighten the nut enough the friction will hold it in place fairly well. The ring on the back is for a capacitor and can be re-sized depending on the capacitor you use. Wires from the capacitor go through the two holes in the big ring and are held in place by the two holes in the smaller ring. After going through the smaller ring they are attached (soldered?) to the back of the .22 round. This is then inserted into the back of the barrel and the two parts are bolted together. Batteries for the capacitor could possibly be held inside of the hollowed grip but this was really more of a way to save plastic.
A circuit is built (maybe pre-built in cameras depending on if it is powerful enough) and the button is placed on the pad where the trigger would go on a normal firearm. If you want a safety, you could stick a lever or switch onto one of the wires leading to the button.
To reload, you would remove the now melted or cracked barrel and bolt a new one in. The grip should (?) stay intact.
I have done NO testing and have NOT printed this. Do not print this due to legal issues. Read the legality thread!
I might later add a plate on top of the connection between barrel and grip to prevent a rouge explosion from hurting the user.
File | Extension |
---|---|
22_Electric_v5-Proteus.zip | zip |
Version: 1.0.0 latest
5This is an updated version of the .22 electric firearm. As usual, do not print this in case it is classified as an AOW. More information is found here: http://defcad.org/forum/index.php?topic=355.msg1318;topicseen#new.
In theory, the circuit would be made up of the parts of three disposable cameras. All three have their capacitors removed and then they are connected onto the circuit of one of the cameras. Then two wires are connected to the three capacitors and put through the two holes which will touch it to the bullet. This model should not require soldering unlike the last one did.
Here’s how this works. It is basically a test firearm designed to fire .22 rounds using electric current. It comes in two parts, the grip and the barrel. The two 5mm diameter holes on the barrel and grip will have a bolt inserted in them and tightened with a nut and wrench. The hole is smooth and will not hold the bolt on its own, but I believe if you tighten the nut enough the friction will hold it in place fairly well. The ring on the back is for a capacitor and can be re-sized depending on the capacitor you use. Wires from the capacitor go through the two holes in the big ring and are held in place by the two holes in the smaller ring. After going through the smaller ring they are attached (soldered?) to the back of the .22 round. This is then inserted into the back of the barrel and the two parts are bolted together. Batteries for the capacitor could possibly be held inside of the hollowed grip but this was really more of a way to save plastic.
A circuit is built (maybe pre-built in cameras depending on if it is powerful enough) and the button is placed on the pad where the trigger would go on a normal firearm. If you want a safety, you could stick a lever or switch onto one of the wires leading to the button.
To reload, you would remove the now melted or cracked barrel and bolt a new one in. The grip should (?) stay intact.
I have done NO testing and have NOT printed this. Do not print this due to legal issues. Read the legality thread!
I might later add a plate on top of the connection between barrel and grip to prevent a rouge explosion from hurting the user.
4.6K
195
Mar 23, 2020
3D Printer
United States
English
No license
QmYTWDpJBgQ6g5iYbrgBR1ShUNZeSMJnffvZXbrV7Qx5QB
File | Extension |
---|---|
22_Electric_v5-Proteus.zip | zip |
Version: 1.0.0 latest
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