Avalanche_Abbasy's "What Would Stoner Do?" Complete Polymer AR15 Receiver Overview

Author

Avalanche_Abassy (V.1 - 3)

Testers (Special Thanks)

GunnyMcGunsmith (WindowsTheos) <- Check out his youtube channel for a completed build

themoosegoesmoo

Individual19190

Version

3.0 (M3)

Description

This is a complete 3D Printed AR15 Lower Receiver inspired by the likes of Inranges's WWSD build series featuring the CAV-15 Polymer Lower. While that lower was designed to be injection molded, I have created a derivative designed to take advantage of 3D printing.

Simmilar to Warfairy's Charon, the lower is printed in parts and includes a fixed buttstock and grip. Provisions have been made to make the lower suitable to being printed in different plastics such as PLA or PETG.

To assemble the lower receiver itself, a minimal amount of tools is nessecary. In order to get a quality, long lasting receiver as a result of this project the builder must be patient with the assembly (Unlike me).

Instructions (Will be split into parts depending on what configuration is being built)

Parts Needed (Base Version):

• AR-15 Lower Parts kit
• 2- 1/4 Inch Bolts and Fasteners (Takedown Pins)
• 2- 12-28 Screws (Buttplate, A1 Buffer Version)
• 1- 5/64 Roll pin (Buffer Retaining Pin)
• 1- 17mm long M2 screw (Ambi catch lever, any 2mm OD rod will do)
• 2 Sling Swivel Shotgun QD Bases (Optional, these are what I used and they will fit into the holes into the receiver https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078ZRV6Z5/)

  Upgraded Buffer Tower Versions:

• 10-32 'long' Brass threaded inserts
• 40mm long 10-32 threaded rod (Buffer Retainer Replacement)
• 10-24 Bolt (Safety Detent Retainer)

  Trapdoor Buttplate:

• 1 M3 Threaded Insert
• 1 M3 Bolt (6mm long)
• 2 10-32 Screws or 10-24 Screws

9mm Magwell

• 2- 17mm Long M2 Screws(Mag Catch Levers)
• 2- M3 Screws (9mm Ejector)

Handguard

• 5/64 Bolt or Rod (Barrel shroud retaining hole)

Adhesives

• If Using PETG: Use JBWeld Plastic Bonder

• If Using PLA: Use 3D Gloop

• If Using ABS: Use Acetone mixed with ABS scrap into a slurry to weld

Materials: PLA (Hatbox PLA as benchmark)

• Print Temp: 220 C
• Bed Temp: 60 C
• Bed Prep: Wipe clean with glass cleaner before/after printing, apply kapton tape or glue for adhesion
• Infill:99%(See complete guide for parts that can be printed with infill steps)
• Line/Rectilinear Fill pattern
• Enclosure is optional

PETG (Inland PETG as benchmark)

• Print temp: 240C
• Bed Temp: 75C
• Bed Prep: Wipe bed clean with glass cleaner before printing, Make a salt water solution (does not need to be high, I used less than 15%) and wipe it on the bed untill only the salt remains, more details on this method in the included PDF
• Infill: 99%
• Line/Rectilinear Fill Pattern
• Enclosure is optional

Disclaimer:

As of writing this guide, Nylon and fiber filled filaments are untested, use at your own risk. If you decide to use unlisted matireals, share your results with Avalanche_Abassy

Build Guide

The basic assembliy goes as follows:

• Print each part in the orientation of the STL and the reccomended settings or use your best judgement.
• You only need one rear assembly and magwell for each configuration, for example, you can use a thordsen stock with the 9mm magwell or the standard a1 stock with a integrated handguard
• I reccomend checking the fitment of lower parts (such as the magazine catch, bolt catch, and trigger parts) before gluing everything together, if the fit is too tight then sand and file slowly untill you get a good fit. Drill holes out to the proper diameter instead of forcing pins inside
• For the safety holes specifically, it is OK to drill the detent hole out to a OD of 9/64th of a inch completely
• If using a version with threaded inserts, install the brass inserts using any soldering iron. Make sure to install threaded inserts after your holes are the right size (Safety retainer and buffer retainer)
• The improved A1 stock also uses a M3 Screw and insert for the opening plate, if you do not plan to use the cubboard storage you can simply use a screw
• If using a version with a standard buffer retainer, insert the buffer retainer and spring and then place a 5/64 roll pin or rod in the hole in the buffer tower, make sure it is seated securely and it holds the buffer retainer down
• in the thordsen varient it is advised that if you use a threaded rod and not a bolt that you grind a groove into the threaded rod in order to turn it with a flat head screwdriver
• Sand/File/Grind the threads off the last 3mm of the bolt or threaded rod that you use as the buffer retainer, this is to reduce friction and provide more clearance for the BCG during firing
• Drill out/ream takedown pin holes carefully with a 1/4" drill bit, do not screw in or force takedown pins or bolts into the holes.
• The ambidexterious magazine catch button should be installed as per the incuded video. The long detent goes in before the small (standard) one
• When you are ready to begin final assembly of the lower parts, sand the contact surfaces of each joint with sandpaper to help adhesion
• Carefully glue each part one by one and clamp them together, waiting for the hardening to begin before moving to the next part (If you are using JBweld plastic bonder on PETG, the cure time is about 10 minutes, if using 3D Gloop, the cure time is about 3 minutes)
• If using a integrated handguard, the upper receiver can only fit into the channel if a standard or slim barrel nut is installed, make sure to remove old mounting hardware such as from a standard 2 peice handguard
• Allow the complete assembly to cure for at least a full 24 hours untill usage
• If using the QD mounting cups from amazon, use the included screw to screw them into the lower and cover the outside of the cup with locktite or simmilar glue to help hold it in place.
• If the above instructions have been followed, the build is complete

9mm Magwell

The 9mm Magwell requires additonal steps

*The Magazine catch uses a single screw and two levers, each lever is held in place by a 2mm OD rod, which can be a bolt or a rod that is glued in place *9mm AR15s require an ejector, a STL for a ejector that is held in place by two screws is included, however, it is reccomended that the ejector be fabricated out of sheet aluminum instead *If the 9mm bolt carrier does not clear the ejector, sand off the top of the ejector untill the function is smooth

Gripscrew

The AR15 uses a 1/4-28 (fine) bolt as a gripscrew, if using the gripscrew version i reccomend either using a 1/4-20 (coarse) Threaded insert in the hole for the screw OR gluing a 1/4" Threaded rod into the hole instead

https://avalanche_abassy.keybase.pub/