'The Holdout' was designed to be a replacement for the 'Liberator'. It is different (and possibly better) in many ways. First off, it is about half the empty weight of the Liberator. The barrel is a tad shorter and larger than the Liberators, as well as having rifling. It uses the same nail that the Liberator should use (I just used the same dimensions from the Liberator).
Bill of Materials
You will need to print:
1 X Barrel_Latch
1 X Barrel
1 X Firing_Pin_Tube
10 X Frame_Pins_Cap
3 X Frame_Pin_Long
8 X Frame_Pin_Short
8 X Frame_Pin
1 X Grip_Thickener_Left
1 X Grip_Thickener_Right
1 X Hammer
1 X Main_Spring
1 X Side_Extension_Left
1 X Side_Extension_Right
1 X Side_Left
1 X Side_Right
1 X Trigger
You will need to obtain:
1 X Pen Spring (Not sure what size or brand)
1 X 7-9mm segment of a small paperclip or other wire (1mm diameter)
1 X Nail (Unknown dimensions, same as one used with Liberator)
Assembly Instructions
Look at renders and/or the Solidworks Assembly for more detail and clarification.
I recommend putting the Hammer and Trigger in before anything else. This should require the insertion of two regular Frame Pins. They may need to be sanded down in order to fit into the holes, just test and see. They should sit flush to the outside of whatever side (Left or Right) they are put into. Epoxy or other adequate glue should be used to fix them in place. 2 Frame Pin Caps could now be glued into the cavities around the Pins. The Hammer needs a frame pin to be glued into the apropriate hole. Letting it dry a little would be wise. Once the Trigger and Hammer are placed, makes sure they spin freely, especially the Hammer. If working, you can try to put the pen spring in (it will require bending) so it is sitting against the Trigger and fits in its socket. If it won't work now, wait untill everything else is done. Just try pulling the hammer back and see if it will push the trigger out of the way, then let it fall back into place. If it works, that is good, and you may continue.
I suggest that you glue all neccesary Short Frame Pins into the row of 3 holes, ready for the Grip Thickener. The ends of the Pins should sit flush to the inside face of whatever Side (Left or Right) that you are working on. It would be best to do the same to the other Side before going any further. If the pins end up sitting slightly inside the side, then it is neccesary to sand that down untill flush with the rest of the face.You may then glue the apropriate Grip Thickener into place, so that the protruding studs of the pins fit into the holes in the grip.
At this point, you should have both Sides with Grip thickeners glued into place via the Short Frame Pins. On one Side, you should have 2 Frame Pins glued into place, holding the Trigger and Hammer. If you intend to fire the gun later, it is neccesary to use a nail as a firing pin. I am (as of the moment) unsure as to the exact dimensions of the nail used in the Liberator, but You could look around in you hardware store/workshop to see if you have anything that fits. Once a suitable nail is found, you could glue the Firing Pin Tube in. Make sure you have the Nail sitting in the Firing Pin Tube as you glue it in. This will also aid in holding the two Sides together later.
The 3 Long Frame Pins could now be glued in, along with one of the last Short Frame Pins. It would be easiest to do so using the correct Side Extension (Left or Right). Determine which Side you are using, then find the flat side (not the side with holes). That is its front. The completely rounded corner should be on the bottom. Now, glue the two Long Frame Pins into the top 2 holes, and the last one in the hole near the rounded corner. Make VERY sure they are pressed in ALL the way. A Short Frame Pin should now be glued into the remaining hole in the same way. Let it dry a bit, then glue it into the corresponding 4 holes of whatever Side (Left or Right) you are working on. The front of your Side Extension (Left or Right) should sit flush to whatever Side (Left or Right) you are working on, that is, extending that face.
You should now have a Side (Left or Right) with a Side Extension and corresponding Pins, a Grip Thickener and corresponding Pins, a Trigger and corresponding Pin, a Hammer and corresponding Pin, along with 2 Pin Caps. The other Side (Left or Right) should just have it's Grip Thickener and corresponding Pins. You should now glue a regular Frame Pin into the empty hole in the bottom of the grip. It should be sitting against the Grip thickener on the other side. Now fit the Main Spring onto that Pin, the shorter of the 2 arms fitting into the inlet below the Pen Spring socket. The arm that sticks up towards the hammer should be tapered, and sit so it is pushed away when the Hammer is pulled.
3 Frame Pins should now be glued into the remaining holes. They should be located on the Trigger Guard, above and to the right of the Pen Spring socket, and behind the Hammer. Glue tham all in so they sit flush to the outside of whatever Side (Left or Right) you are working on. You may then glue Frame Pin Caps into the corresponding sockets arouund those Pins.
Now take the Barrel Latch and your Segment of Paperclip. Make sure the piece of the paperclip will fit through the hole in the Barrel Latch. If neccesary, drill a larger hole in the same place as the old one. Now, if neccesary, drill out the hole in both Sides. Put the paperclip segment into the Side you are working on (Left or Right), and fit the Barrel Latch onto that, make sure it turns freely.
You should now be ready to glue the opposite Side together. Make sure the glue you use can be ajusted before it dries (Epoxy). I recomend you put glue on any large flat areas that would come in contact with the other side, especially around where the barrel will sit. Get glue ready on all the Pins/holes, then fit the Side on in one go. Make sure the Paperclip Segment/wire fits into the other side. If you wanted to, you could glue the wire in, but so long as you havn/t drilled further than 2.5mm on either side, and the paperclip segment is 7-9mm long, it shouldn't be neccesary.
Now, once the opposite side is glued down, you may glue on all the remaining Frame Pin Caps. If you like, you could try the firing system now, so long as all the glue is dry. The Barrel is attached by sliding the rail through the track below where the Barrel sits. Lift the Barrel Latch as the Barrel comes into the place, then let it fall into place once more. Try gently pushing the Barrel back off and make sure it doesn't move. This is so that the Barrel doesn't fall off when the gun is angled down.
DISCLAIMER
I do not accept responsibility for and injury, death or legal issues that may arise from the manufacture or use of this design. It is illegal to manufacture this design in many places, due to its insufficient amount of steel, so be aware of local laws.
File | Extension |
---|---|
Holdout_Pistol-RollaTroll.zip | zip |
Version: 1.0.0 latest
'The Holdout' was designed to be a replacement for the 'Liberator'. It is different (and possibly better) in many ways. First off, it is about half the empty weight of the Liberator. The barrel is a tad shorter and larger than the Liberators, as well as having rifling. It uses the same nail that the Liberator should use (I just used the same dimensions from the Liberator).
Bill of Materials
You will need to print:
1 X Barrel_Latch
1 X Barrel
1 X Firing_Pin_Tube
10 X Frame_Pins_Cap
3 X Frame_Pin_Long
8 X Frame_Pin_Short
8 X Frame_Pin
1 X Grip_Thickener_Left
1 X Grip_Thickener_Right
1 X Hammer
1 X Main_Spring
1 X Side_Extension_Left
1 X Side_Extension_Right
1 X Side_Left
1 X Side_Right
1 X Trigger
You will need to obtain:
1 X Pen Spring (Not sure what size or brand)
1 X 7-9mm segment of a small paperclip or other wire (1mm diameter)
1 X Nail (Unknown dimensions, same as one used with Liberator)
Assembly Instructions
Look at renders and/or the Solidworks Assembly for more detail and clarification.
I recommend putting the Hammer and Trigger in before anything else. This should require the insertion of two regular Frame Pins. They may need to be sanded down in order to fit into the holes, just test and see. They should sit flush to the outside of whatever side (Left or Right) they are put into. Epoxy or other adequate glue should be used to fix them in place. 2 Frame Pin Caps could now be glued into the cavities around the Pins. The Hammer needs a frame pin to be glued into the apropriate hole. Letting it dry a little would be wise. Once the Trigger and Hammer are placed, makes sure they spin freely, especially the Hammer. If working, you can try to put the pen spring in (it will require bending) so it is sitting against the Trigger and fits in its socket. If it won't work now, wait untill everything else is done. Just try pulling the hammer back and see if it will push the trigger out of the way, then let it fall back into place. If it works, that is good, and you may continue.
I suggest that you glue all neccesary Short Frame Pins into the row of 3 holes, ready for the Grip Thickener. The ends of the Pins should sit flush to the inside face of whatever Side (Left or Right) that you are working on. It would be best to do the same to the other Side before going any further. If the pins end up sitting slightly inside the side, then it is neccesary to sand that down untill flush with the rest of the face.You may then glue the apropriate Grip Thickener into place, so that the protruding studs of the pins fit into the holes in the grip.
At this point, you should have both Sides with Grip thickeners glued into place via the Short Frame Pins. On one Side, you should have 2 Frame Pins glued into place, holding the Trigger and Hammer. If you intend to fire the gun later, it is neccesary to use a nail as a firing pin. I am (as of the moment) unsure as to the exact dimensions of the nail used in the Liberator, but You could look around in you hardware store/workshop to see if you have anything that fits. Once a suitable nail is found, you could glue the Firing Pin Tube in. Make sure you have the Nail sitting in the Firing Pin Tube as you glue it in. This will also aid in holding the two Sides together later.
The 3 Long Frame Pins could now be glued in, along with one of the last Short Frame Pins. It would be easiest to do so using the correct Side Extension (Left or Right). Determine which Side you are using, then find the flat side (not the side with holes). That is its front. The completely rounded corner should be on the bottom. Now, glue the two Long Frame Pins into the top 2 holes, and the last one in the hole near the rounded corner. Make VERY sure they are pressed in ALL the way. A Short Frame Pin should now be glued into the remaining hole in the same way. Let it dry a bit, then glue it into the corresponding 4 holes of whatever Side (Left or Right) you are working on. The front of your Side Extension (Left or Right) should sit flush to whatever Side (Left or Right) you are working on, that is, extending that face.
You should now have a Side (Left or Right) with a Side Extension and corresponding Pins, a Grip Thickener and corresponding Pins, a Trigger and corresponding Pin, a Hammer and corresponding Pin, along with 2 Pin Caps. The other Side (Left or Right) should just have it's Grip Thickener and corresponding Pins. You should now glue a regular Frame Pin into the empty hole in the bottom of the grip. It should be sitting against the Grip thickener on the other side. Now fit the Main Spring onto that Pin, the shorter of the 2 arms fitting into the inlet below the Pen Spring socket. The arm that sticks up towards the hammer should be tapered, and sit so it is pushed away when the Hammer is pulled.
3 Frame Pins should now be glued into the remaining holes. They should be located on the Trigger Guard, above and to the right of the Pen Spring socket, and behind the Hammer. Glue tham all in so they sit flush to the outside of whatever Side (Left or Right) you are working on. You may then glue Frame Pin Caps into the corresponding sockets arouund those Pins.
Now take the Barrel Latch and your Segment of Paperclip. Make sure the piece of the paperclip will fit through the hole in the Barrel Latch. If neccesary, drill a larger hole in the same place as the old one. Now, if neccesary, drill out the hole in both Sides. Put the paperclip segment into the Side you are working on (Left or Right), and fit the Barrel Latch onto that, make sure it turns freely.
You should now be ready to glue the opposite Side together. Make sure the glue you use can be ajusted before it dries (Epoxy). I recomend you put glue on any large flat areas that would come in contact with the other side, especially around where the barrel will sit. Get glue ready on all the Pins/holes, then fit the Side on in one go. Make sure the Paperclip Segment/wire fits into the other side. If you wanted to, you could glue the wire in, but so long as you havn/t drilled further than 2.5mm on either side, and the paperclip segment is 7-9mm long, it shouldn't be neccesary.
Now, once the opposite side is glued down, you may glue on all the remaining Frame Pin Caps. If you like, you could try the firing system now, so long as all the glue is dry. The Barrel is attached by sliding the rail through the track below where the Barrel sits. Lift the Barrel Latch as the Barrel comes into the place, then let it fall into place once more. Try gently pushing the Barrel back off and make sure it doesn't move. This is so that the Barrel doesn't fall off when the gun is angled down.
DISCLAIMER
I do not accept responsibility for and injury, death or legal issues that may arise from the manufacture or use of this design. It is illegal to manufacture this design in many places, due to its insufficient amount of steel, so be aware of local laws.
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Mar 23, 2020
3D Printer
United States
English
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Qmejz6Fg2S46qT4Qf53eYYmi8K97NNmcA8yr32cYZiThdx
File | Extension |
---|---|
Holdout_Pistol-RollaTroll.zip | zip |
Version: 1.0.0 latest
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